GRAYSON-HIGHLANDS STATE PARK

Well, it took the better part of 8-months, but cabin fever finally struck. For the past few weeks, I have been itching to hit the road for something more than an out and back day trip.  All summer long I had combated cabin fever with day trip that I used to capture footage for some up coming YouTube Video. Those little trips and my daily walks helped to fend off the fever.

But in the last couple of weeks, the leaves began to change and with cooler days, I really wanted to hit the road. So that’s what I did. Ove the last three days, I put close to 1,000 miles on the car.

I started out with a trip down to the Grayson Highlands State Park. I had never been that and it is remote and takes a little effort to get there. But once I arrived, I quickly found out it is one of Virginia’s Hidden Gems.

It does get crowded this time of the year as it is extremely popular with the leaf peepers.  The park is part of the Mount Roger’s Recreation Area. Mount Roger’s is the highest point in Virginia, standing about 5,728 feet tall.

The Appalachian Trail runs through the park and it is a popular jumping on/off sport for section and day hikers.  Probably the most popular spot in the Park is Massie Gap, as evidenced by the number of cars parker there.

Massie Gap has several hiking trails, but what really makes it popular is the wild ponies that live here. Back abut 1974 a herd of wild ponies were introduced to the area of Grayson Highlands State Park adjacent to the Appalachian Trail. The ponies are vital to habitat management and ack as natural lawn mowers.  Today, there are about 100-ponies in the park, and they are the parks most popular feature.

I managed to find a parking spot at Massie Gap and shortly after beginning my two-mile hike along the Rhododendron Trail I saw three ponies grazing in the meadow adjacent to the trail. The were not bothered by the large number of humans. For the most part the humans obeyed the many signs to no attempt to interact or bother the ponies.  They are wild and will kick and bite.

I spent several hours enjoying the beauty of the Park. The hike along a short part of the Rhododendron Trail was most enjoyable.

After leaving the state park I drove west on Route 58, through the bustling Appalachian Trail Town of Damascus.  This town is really cool, as it is one of the most popular spots on the Appalachian Trail and it is also the midway point on the Virginia Creeper Trail.

The Creeper Trail is a 30+ mile hiking and bicycle trail that runs from the top of White Top Mountain at the North Carolina-Virginia State Line all the way to Abingdon. A few years back a couple of friends and I rented bikes in Damascus and rode the 17-miles from White Top back to Damascus.  The bike rental company will shuttle you and your bike to the top of the mountain so you can ride back down.

Most of the 17-mile ride back to Damascus is almost all downhill, the only exception is the last 3-miles which is level.  We took about 4-hours to make the trip, as we stopped several times for pictures and to just enjoy the beauty of the trail. 

We also stopped for lunch at the Creeper Trail Café for lunch.  The café features basic sandwiches, hot dogs, burgers and fried. But what they are widely known for is their homemade chocolate cake.  I had a huge slice of cake and man oh man, it lived up to its reputation as being the “Best Chocolate Cake I the World.”

If you are ever visiting Southwest Virginia and have some time to kill, I strongly urge you to take a ride on the Creeper Trail and Visit Grayson Highlands State Park. I don’t think you will be disappointed in either.

After leaving Damascus it was back home to pack my bag, recharge my electronics and get ready to hit the road for a short trip up through the Shenandoah Valley. 

I am looking forward to hitting the road again. Stay tuned.

MAD ANN BAILEY

I stumbled on this really by accident back in 2004. I was just out piddling and made a stop at the Falls at Falling Springs, on Route 220 north of Covington, Virginia. The small parking area at the falls was full and I ended up parking on the shoulder just north of the falls. 

After walking to the Falls Overlook and snapping a few photos, I returned to my car so I could Piddle on. Just as I was getting in the car, I caught sight of a small plaque embedded into the face of the stone cliff adjacent to the roadway. 

Strange, so I took a moment to investigate. The simple plaque read: “Near this spot stood the rude hut in which MAD ANN BAILEY spent the last years of her life. As a scout and Indian Fighter, she rendered valuable service to the first settlers of this section. Placed by the Rainbow Ridge Chapter D. A. R.” 

Wow, I had never heard of Mad Ann Bailey, but I knew I wanted to know the rest of the story. Here is what I found out.

She was born in England in 1742 and after her parent died, she came to America sometime around 1760 or 1761 and eventually settled near Staunton, Virginia. There she met and married a man named Richard Trotter who was a member of the Virginia Militia. Richard was called to service and was killed on October 10, 1774 during the Battle of Point Pleasant. A vicious battle between the Militia and the Shawnee who were led by Chief Cornstalk. 

After Richards death, Ann set about to avenge his death. She started dressing in men’s clothes and became very proficient with a rifle, knife, and tomahawk. Even though she was a woman, she became an accomplished hunter, scout, spy, and Indian Fighter. 

She had a quick temper and could out drink and out cuss any man. Those around her started calling her “Mad Ann,” because of her angry disposition. 

In 1785 she married John Bailey and the couple settled near Charleston, West Virginia. Ann continued to serve as a scout and messenger for various forts along the Greenbrier, Kanawha, and Ohio Rivers. 

Ann’s most heroic deed came in 1791 when she was 49 years old. She was asked to carry a message warning the people of nearby Fort Lee of an impending Indian Attack. Upon her arrival she discovered that the fort was dangerously low on gun power and supplies. Without hesitation, Mad Ann volunteered to make the 100-mile ride from Fort Lee to Lewisburg to get the much-needed supplies.  Just Three days after leaving the Fort, Mad Ann returned with enough powder, shot, and supplies to allow the fort to defeat the Shawnee. 

Ann and John remained at Fort Lee until John died in 1794. Even after John’s death, Ann continued to serve as a frontier scout and messenger and for a few months lived in a hut near the site of this simple plaque that caught my attention.  

Ann finally left the life of scout, spy, and Indian Fighter behind and moved in with her son near Gallipolis, Ohio where, believe it or not Mad Ann Bailey became a schoolteacher. 

Mad Ann died at the age of 83 on November 22, 1825. She was buried in the Trotter Family Cemetery near Gallipolis. She rested there for 76 years but in 1901 her remains were moved and she was reburied in Monument Park in Point Pleasant, West Virginia. 

Ironically, her grave is just a few feet away from the Shawnee Chief Cornstalk, who had led the Indians in the Battle of Point Pleasant. The same battle where her first husband had died and set Ann off on her career as a Frontier Scout, Messenger, and Indian Fighter. Now, along with me, You too, know the rest of the story.

UNCLE ALFRED

Back in 1988, I made my first visit to The Hermitage with my dad.  During that visit we were unable to tour the house because it was undergoing some structural renovations. But we were able to walk the grounds and visit the tomb of President Andrew Jackson and is Wife Rachel.

It was during this visit that I first noticed the small stone near the Presidents Tomb inscribed “Uncle Alfred.” While I was curious about Uncle Alfred, it wasn’t until I returned to The Hermitage in 2005 and took the tour of the mansion that I was able to satisfy my curiosity and find out who Uncle Alfred was.

During the tour, the guide mentions that Uncle Alfred a couple of times, which further aroused my curiosity. After the tour I managed to corner one of the guided and found out a little more about Uncle Alfred. She said Alfred was born into slavery somewhere around 1805. His mother was named Betty who was a cook at the Hermitage for more than 50-years.

As young man Alfred was responsible for maintaining the wagons and farm equipment in addition to working in the fields.  By all accounts Alfred was a responsible and dependable worker which was noticed by President Jackson. As time went by Alfred became a close and trusted servant of the President.  He tended to the Presidents horses and carriages and eventually became his personal butler and at times bodyguard.

The guide went on to explain that Alfred lived in a small cabin behind the Hermitage. That cabin still stands today. When President Jackson died in 1845 the slaves, including Alfred was given their freedom. Most to them left The Hermitage and went to nearby Nashville, but Alfred remained at The Hermitage and continued to live in his small cabin.

The Hermitage remained in the Jackson Family and Uncle Alfred continued to live in his small cabin became a tenant farmer. During the Civil War, members of the Jackson Family were still occupying the Hermitage and in 1863, Union Forces Camped on the grounds. But unlike other places in the south, The Hermitage was not burned or ransacked out of respect for President Jackson.

After the war, the Hermitage fell into disrepair and the last two members of the Jackson Family were forced to begin selling furnishing. Alfred, who had managed to save some money over the years managed to buy several pieces of furniture that belonged to President Jackson. Alfred moved these treasured pieces into his small cabin where they remained until 1889.

It was then that the Ladies Hermitage Association purchased the mansion and 25-acres of land to preserve it as a historical site. Little by Little, Over the Next century the Association gained control of the entire 1,200 acres that was once The Hermitage Plantation. 

Soon after the Ladies Hermitage Association gained control of the property, they approached Alfred and ask if he would consider selling the original furniture back to the Association so that it could be returned to the Mansion. Alfred agreed with one addition request. When he died, he wanted to be buried in Rachels Garden near the Tomb of President Jackson and his wife Rachel. The Association agreed and the furniture was returned to the Mansion. Today, almost 90% of what we see at The Hermitage is authentic to the property. 

After the Association took control of the property, Alfred continued to live in the small cabin that he had called home all his life. He was too old to continue farming so he took great pride in conducting tours of the mansion and ground. He would delight visitors with his personal stories about our 7^th President and his life at the Hermitage.

Uncle Alfred died on September 4, 1901. True to their word the Ladies Hermitage Association arranged for Uncle Alfred to be buried in Rachel’s Garden just a few steps from the tomb of President and Mrs. Jackson. The small stone that marks his final resting place is inscribed:

UNCLE ALFRED

DIED SEPT. 4, 1901

AGE 98

FAITHFUL SERVANT

OF ANDREW JACKSON.

So, if you ever visit The Hermitage, as you walk the grounds, pay particular attention to that little cabin situated just outside the back door of the Mansion. Then as you walk over to the tomb of President Jackson, stop and spend a moment to remember Uncle Alfred, a remarkable man who spent his entire life here at The Hermitage.

 

 

 

 

DR. SAMUEL MUDD

 

Back in 2016, I was on my way to the Military Bowl in Annapolis, Maryland when I saw one of those Brown Signs. Well, you know me and those Brown Signs so off I went. A few minutes later I found myself at the home of Dr. Samuel Mudd. 

Now, most of us know that on April 14, 1865, John Wilkes Booth entered the Presidential Box at Ford’s Theater and fired a single shot into the back of President Abraham Lincoln’s Head. Booth leaped from the Presidential Box onto the stage, breaking his leg in the process. In the confusion Booth managed exit the theater and mounted a horse he had waiting in the ally and fled across Anacostia River into Maryland.

A few Hours later Booth arrived at the home of Dr. Samuel Mudd seeking treatment for his Broken Leg. Dr. Mudd treated Booth and sent him on his way.  Mudd wouldn’t learn of the Lincoln Assassination for several hours after Booth Left.

A few days Later Dr. Mudd was interviewed and later arrested as a conspirator in the assassination of President Lincoln.  After a lengthy trial he was found guilty on June 26, 1865. Mudd escaped the hangman’s noose by one single vote and was sentenced to life imprisonment. The Four other defendants Mary Surratt, Lewis Powell, David Herold, and George Atzerodt were sentenced to death and hanged on July 7, 1865.

Dr. Mudd was sent to Fort Jefferson an isolated fort about 70-miles west of Key West. Florida to serve his sentence. In the fall of 1867, the story takes a tragic turn as the fort was ravaged by Yellow Fever.

The plaque claimed the Prison Doctor and Dr. Mudd immediately took over, treating guards, prisoners, and staff. He saved countless lives and due to his efforts, the disease was eventually stopped. Over the Next few month many of the soldiers, guards, and staff wrote to President Andrew Johnson asking that Dr. Mudd be pardoned.

Finally, in February 1869, President Johnson signed the Pardon and Dr. Samuel Mudd was release on March 8, 1869.  He returned to his Maryland home where unsuccessfully dabbled in politics. He did not return to an active medical practice but did operated a successful farm.

For the next 14 years, Dr. Mudd lived quietly here at his Maryland Farm.  On January 10, 1883, Dr. Mudd died of pneumonia and was buried in the St. Mary’s Catholic Church. 

Ironically, it was at this church that Dr. Mudd first met John Wilkes Booth and helped the future assassin buy a horse from a local farmer. Booth and Mudd met several more times before Booth showed up at the Mudd Home on the morning of April 15, 1865. While authorities considered these meetings, suspicious there is no real proof that Mudd participated in or knew of the plan to assassinate President Lincoln.

If, you have every heard the saying, “Your name is Mud,” well you can thank Dr. Mudd for that. The Dr. Mudd Home is a seasonal site and was close during my visit, but I did get to walk around the grounds and after leaving the home I made the short drive to St. Mary’s Church where I had no trouble finding Dr. Mudd’s Grave.

Once again one of those Brown Signs has led me on another interesting adventure.